by Renée Evans
Issue #57 January/February 2026
I remember the conversation vividly. It was late October 2023, and I was sailing in New Zealand with John Neal and crew when one of the expedition members, Ken Parker, began sharing stories about a place called Haida Gwaii, where he had done an extended kayaking trip 20 years prior. I had never heard of it before. As he spoke—describing a chain of islands cloaked in mist, rich with towering old-growth forests, teeming marine life, and an enduring Indigenous culture—I felt a quiet thrill rise inside me. There was something about it, a kind of pull I couldn’t explain. By the time he finished, I knew I had to go there myself.
Fast forward to June 2025: Ken and I—now partners—are putting the finishing touches on the electrical refit of Koru, our 2004 Soubise Plaisance 50. We’re preparing to leave our home port of Gig Harbor, WA, and head north to Haida Gwaii, the rugged, crescent-shaped archipelago that lies roughly 80 nautical miles off the coast of mainland British Columbia. It’s our second visit in as many years, and though the route and anchorages are now familiar, the anticipation feels brand new. Over the next three months, we’ll explore, reconnect, and introduce friends to one of the most unique corners of the world.
The passage north
The journey up the Inside Passage never loses its power to awe. Over 551 nautical miles, we trace a corridor of still water hemmed by steep mountains, dense rainforest, and snow-streaked peaks. Bald eagles perch like sentinels on driftwood logs, while seals follow silently in our wake. Each night, we drop anchor in another quiet cove, Koru rocking gently as we fall asleep to the sound of rain on deck.
By mid-June, we reach Prince Rupert, a small but lively port that serves as the northern gateway to British Columbia. We tie up at Cow Bay Marina—our reliable launching point for the final stretch—and spend two days restocking food, fuel, and fishing gear while keeping an eye on the forecast. The next leg will take us across Hecate Strait, a body of water as unpredictable as it is infamous.
Hecate Strait, separating the mainland from Haida Gwaii, has a fearsome reputation: shallow, wide, and often brutal, it’s known for strong winds, fast tides, and steep, confused seas. We’ve crossed it before in calm conditions, at times even praying for a whisper of wind, but we never underestimate its potential to turn quickly.
Two days later, both Windy and PredictWind agree—it’s a good day to cross.
