St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands: A Proven Cruising Destination
By Damian R. LaPlaca
Cruisers often bypass St. Croix, one of three United States Virgin Islands, in their seasonal passage to the Eastern Caribbean Islands. Instead, they may opt for a short stay at sister islands St. Thomas or St. John, then sail east to St. Martin to finish boat projects and start their southbound island hop. In skipping St. Croix, cruisers miss a welcoming cruising ground, an ideal location to accomplish almost any boat project, a low-key island with great dinner options, and several good and relatively economical grocery stores for provisioning.
To reach Christiansted, the main hub of St. Croix, I set sail from Salinas, Puerto Rico, on Beckon, my Jeanneau 39i, and mostly motored (solo) against the prevailing east wind and associated chop. After reaching Vieques, one of the Spanish Virgin Islands, I took Bruce Van Sant’s advice (The Gentlemen’s Guide to Passages South, 10th Ed.) and sailed overnight, leaving Bahia de la Chiva on Vieques at midnight and arriving Christiansted at 8 am the next morning.
The plan was to continue eastward to St. Kitts and Nevis, lesser-traveled sailing destinations, and perhaps continue south below the perceived hurricane belt. It was early September, the heart of the Atlantic hurricane season, and two systems were brewing off the western edge of Africa on their typical march toward the Caribbean. September is a bad month to be without a protected home, so I took a slip for the month at Green Cay Marina, a short drive outside Christiansted. It is the only marina option in St. Croix with truly protected slip space.
Green Cay is situated behind mangroves and there is almost no roll in its slips. The jetty entrance to Green Cay was easy to navigate for the first-time solo sailor. Some nights it felt like Beckon was resting on jackstands. When storms hit St. Croix, nearby boats rush to Green Cay for protection. It is a full-service marina with water, electricity, and diesel, and employs two highly competent, helpful, and accessible dockhands. The marina is smallish, so reserve early in the season.
St. Croix Marine, another marina option, is located in Gallows Bay in the heart of Christiansted. Because it has an open approach from the bay it is less protected from the winds than Green Cay. It currently has limited dock space but maintains reservable mooring balls close to its dinghy dock. You can also dinghy from its moorings to the boardwalk in Christiansted, tie up, and walk the restaurants in town.
Don’t rule out St. Croix Marine; it is performing upgrades. It just added new power and water pedestals on Dock A with 20, 30, and 50-amp outlets. The marina plans to repair its other docks and add new pedestals, and it is enlarging its marine supply store. It has a 60-ton travel lift and can launch monohulls and catamarans of up to 60 feet. There is more than sufficient on-the-hard storage. A sailmaker, an Ace hardware store, and a grocery store are within walking distance. Plus, the diesel at St. Croix Marine is cheaper than at Green Cay.
The two weather systems fortunately fizzled, but I had started boat projects. Every sailor knows that once you start a boat project, you cannot help yourself. You become a sailor possessed. You make a list of other projects and all the boat parts you need. When a small boat project leads into a large boat project you conclude that you should attempt no more small boat projects, but you start them anyway.
