Sailing in Odysseus’ Waters – Cruising Greece’s West Coast
By Capt. Jean De Keyser | Med Sailing Adventures
While the Aegean, Dodecanese, and Cyclades are top sailing spots, Greece’s west coast facing Italy should not be overlooked and as is well worth exploring.
Homer’s tales and historical records suggest Odysseus ruled Ithaca in the Ionian Sea. After the Trojan War, he returned to his loyal wife, who had fended off numerous suitors during his seven-year absence and swiftly dispatched them to Hades. Today, modern boats like Beneteaus and catamarans sail these same waters, replacing the ancient triremes and penteconters.
The southern Ionian, also known as the Inland Sea, stretches from Lefkada south to Zakynthos. Lefkada is a popular tourist destination on the northern side of the island of Lefkas and has several marinas, with D-Marin being the largest and housing most charter operators. The town provides a variety of modern and comfortable hotel accommodations, and D-Marin features a well-stocked supermarket for provisioning right outside its gates. The marina store even delivers directly to your yacht.
So, you are chartering a yacht, you have been checked out on the boat systems, and now it’s time to throw off the lines and sail away. Just follow the other yachts heading south through the well-marked channel, with the island of Lefkas on your starboard side and the mainland on your port side.
The channel ends once you have passed the light near Agios Georgiou, where the ruins of an old fortress sit on the hill, and you enter the bay of Ormos Drepanou. After about eight miles – and having passed Scorpios Island, where Jackie Kennedy used to hang out with Onassis, you will enter the charming port of Vathy (38°39’47” N, 20°47’05” E). There is plenty of space to practice your Med mooring, and along the waterfront, you have a choice of several excellent typical tavernas to help you recover from any PTSD caused by your first Med docking experience.
If you want to impress your team, proceed west the next morning and sail south along the coast of Meganisi to the vast Cave of Papanikolis, one of the largest sea caves in the world, where a submarine was hidden during World War II (coordinates: 38°36’47” N, 20°45’42” E). Be sure to dinghy to the small beach within the cave.
After a refreshing swimming stop at Afales Beach(38°29’58” N, 20°40’58” E), head for Fiskardho on Kephalonia, where you will overnight in this idyllic port. Arrive before 3:00 PM to secure a spot at the wall. Late arrivals will need to anchor outside and use a dinghy to reach the waterfront for dinner.
Further south, on the southeastern coast of Kefalonia, lies the Ionian fishing port of Sami (38°15.43 N, 20°38.81 E), an ideal starting point for a short land tour. Explore the Drogati cave, renowned for its impressive stalactites and stalagmites, as well as the cenote cave of the nymph Melissani. We highly recommend visiting the spectacular historic Orthodox Monastery of St. Gerasimos and the nearby Robolo winery.
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