Saint Barthélemy: A Surprise Adventure

By Damian R. LaPlaca

A Beam Reach to St. Barths?  Take it!

A north wind in the Caribbean Sea is as rare as a seagull landing on a stern rail empty of fish bate.  It is even more rare under an almost full moon.  When it happens, you must seize the opportunity to sail east on a beam reach.  From St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands, I chose St. Maarten in the Leeward Islands, a well-known sailing destination.  A sailing buddy regaled me with sailing adventures to nearby St. Barthélemy, so I made a last-minute course change.

That uncommon wind delivered me to Gustavia Harbor in just over twenty hours on Beckon, my Jeanneau Performance 39i.  I left at 1 pm and dropped anchor the next day in the outer harbor at 9:30 am.  The consistent north wind gave me one long and straight port tack over 120 nautical miles.  Had I fought the prevailing Caribbean east wind, it would have taken much longer.

The 15-18 knots of consistent north wind confused the west moving seas.  Wave direction contrary to wind made Beckon hobby horse most of the way.  A few misbehaving waves rudely startled me from my cockpit slumber during twenty-minute naps.  But a moonlight sky made the solo sail easier.   At twenty miles out from St. Barths the waves settled down.  I sighted only three vessels heading close to my direction.  Apparently, there is not much demand for boat traffic between St. Barths and St. Thomas.

I found limited room to anchor among a slew of sailboats.  No matter, since I joined the ranks of the privileged.

Gustavia: A Welcoming Harbor

The Gustavia inner harbor looks like Nantucket in August except with even larger yachts.  The customs declaration form asks if your boat has a helipad.  Since my foredeck is at best capable of landing a mini-drone, I left that portion blank.  I congratulated myself on the savings of customs fees.

Sweden held a presence in the Caribbean when it purchased St. Barths from France in 1785.  France wisely repurchased the island about a century later.  History says that the United States had a chance to buy St. Barths but blew it.  The Swedes left three forts which stand as monuments to their brief island rule.  Although the town of Gustavia gets its name from a Swedish King, St. Barths is indisputably French.  

France earned an A when it reacquired St. Barths, one of the most beautiful of the Caribbean islands.  Steep and mountain-like green hills create memorable vistas that swoop down to horseshoe white sandy beaches flanked by flamboyant, frangipani, cactus, and native scrub.  Red-roofed homes dot the landscape.  A large turtle population is a source of pride for residents.  

Wide concrete roads free of potholes easily allow bump free driving in any island vehicle.  Just the view of the small airport strip from high above is breathtaking.  If you are interested in purchasing a home, be prepared.  Glossy real estate brochures, free for the taking, feature architectural masterpieces with prices available only upon request.  You know the saying, if you need to ask, you can’t afford it.

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