By SV Belefonte
Admittedly, I wasn’t thrilled on arrival. We sailed into the large anchorage just west of Big Majors Cay across from Pig Beach, and there were a ton of boats. I emphasize a ton. Preferring the more secluded anchorages, I begin to worry we have plopped ourselves in the center of a tourist trap. However, storms were approaching with strong east winds, and we knew this anchorage had good holding. Plus, people told us repeatedly we needed to come here. So, here we are!
We settle in and jot down a list to resupply while in a more populated area. Winds picked up significantly the following day, but we are eager to explore and restock our nets with much needed fresh vegetables. We’re also in search of a 1.5-inch zinc for our rudder since we lost ours somewhere along the way. We swing into the dingy beach corralled by large limestone blocks in front of Staniel Cay Yacht Club. First thing’s first… food! We pop our heads into the Yacht Club restaurant. We are pizza lovers, and can’t resist a freshly made pie! We also inquire about when they will restock fuel and are told another shipment will be arriving in a couple days. Next on the list, zinc! Unfortunately, stopping at the Isles General Store, our best chance of finding a 1.5 in zinc, was unsuccessful. It was a long shot anyways. We grab a few items and stop into the next small grocery store to check out their inventory.
The Bahamas receives shipments of food and other necessities on mailboats. They run frequently, but not always consistently. With limited access to certain things, it seems almost random what the small local shops can get in stock. We’ve seen frenzies happen when the mailboats get into town. Also, “island time” is a very real thing here. Stores could be open or closed any day or time, regardless of posted hours. The second of the island’s three tiny stores we visit is closed. A fellow cruiser walking by informs us the rumor is they will be back open on Monday, maybe. On to the final store! However, their “closed” sign dangled in the doorway. We chat with another friendly cruiser in front of the store long enough for the owner to return from lunch break. We hop inside, relieved to find fresh produce. Prices aren’t marked. Knowing things are expensive, we grab only a handful of items. We check out, and the winning number was…. $75! For what we picked up, holy guacamole that’s a lot of money, I thought to myself. I am stunned, but prices are like that everywhere here, so we take our groceries and head back to the dinghy. While walking back we examine the itemized receipt. I couldn’t believe it…six dollars for one bundle of cilantro! It is 30 cents back home in Texas! I almost hit the pavement. The other item I was shocked about was ten dollars for two small, bundled heads of broccoli. I was going to cherish these items, use every piece of them, and vowed to ask the cashier the produce prices before checking out.
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